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Hair Loss

To better understand the causes of hair loss one needs some understanding of the Anatomy and Chemistry of the normal human hair follicle. Human hair continually cycles through three phases of growth. Anagen, Catagen and Telogen described below. The hair shaft in gray and the sebaceous gland (oil gland) in white share a common opening (pore). Hair contains keratin, a protein that is made of minuet fibers and glue like material that holds the fibers in place. The inner part of the hair shaft is called the cortex and is surrounded by the cuticle. The cuticle is similar to the scale of a fish and prevents the hair shaft from deteriorating.


Anagen Catagen Telogen	Cuticles of hair shaft
Follicle Follicle Follicle	under high magnification

Anagen - The active growth phase lasting 3 or more years and represents 90 - 95% of the hair follicles at any given time. The hair follicle consists of several layers.
Catagen - This is the phase between the active growth phases (anagen) and the resting phase (telogen). This phase lasts about 2 weeks.
Telogen - This is the resting phase and consists of the hairs that are normally shed with the little white bulb on the end. This phase may last up to 2 months and represents only about 5 - 10% of the hair follicles at any given time.

There are several causes of hair loss. The medical term for hair loss is alopecia. We will limit our discussion to preventable hair loss. Hair grooming techniques and chemicals are by far the most common causes of hair loss in African - Americans.

Traction Alopecia

Hair loss cause by tight ponytails, braids and rollers is called Traction Alopecia. This type of hair loss usually requires repeated episodes of pulling the hair to tight along the edges. Many who have this problem consider it hereditary because it is often seen in several generations of the same family. Nothing could be further from the truth. This type of hair loss is 100 percent preventable. It is important that everyone who observes the early signs of this condition help to educate others on it's causes and prevention. The following photographs should help one recognize the early signs of this condition and what can result if corrective measures are not taken.


Early Stage of Traction Alopecia	Advanced Stage of Traction Alopecia

The above type of hair loss can be prevented by:

Keeping braids and ponytails loose around the edges
Avoiding sponge, wire and rollers with pins
Using plastic rollers that have a top that holds the hair in place
Pin curling the hair.

Chemical Hair Loss

Another very preventable form of hair loss is that caused by chemicals. This is usually caused by over processing and poor technique. The use of hair dyes along with relaxers can also lead to breakage. This type of hair loss is often referred to as shedding. Hair shedding is the natural process of hair replacement. These hairs come out from the scalp and not off the portion of the hair that is outside the scalp. Fortunately breakage does not cause permanent hair loss and proper use of chemicals and conditioning agents can prevent this.

Dr. Wilborn is much more concerned about a much more severe form of hair loss he believes is caused by improper and excessive use of chemicals. This type of hair loss has been referred to as The Follicular Degeneration Syndrome. This hair loss is manifested by the progressive loss of hair follicles usually starting near the crown and spreading toward the front and sides. The following sequence of events is what Dr. Wilborn believes causes the problem.

Scalp hairs are arranged in clusters of 2 or more hairs called follicular units. There is a small space between each unit. At the most only one hair per unit would be in Telogen at any point in time. The Telogen hair rests very close to the epidermis
The top of the head is like a shelf. Relaxer applied directly to the scalp or very close to the scalp seeps into the pores of the hair follicle. Hair follicles that are in Telogen (resting hairs) are damaged by the relaxer and do not reproduce a replacement hair. The hair follicle cycles every three years or longer. It would take two or more cycles before an entire follicular unit is destroyed. When this happens that area of the scalp has no hairs emerging from the scalp. As more hair is loss, thinning of the hair in the affected areas become apparent. Early detection and corrective measures is the only way to prevent the severe hair loss depicted in the photographs below

Hair Breakage from Relaxer	Thinning From Relaxer
Thinning and Breakage From Relaxer	Natural Thinning and Thinning From Relaxer

How do we prevent this type of hair loss?

Avoid putting relaxers directly on the scalp
Use the DPL Hair Root Conditioner as a base
Rinse the hair and scalp thoroughly in all areas
Neutralize with the DPL Hair Root Conditioner as directed on package
Do not re-touch more often than every 8 weeks or longer.

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